deb’s dypot
deb’s dypot
One of the first things a weaver asks about dyed material is if it is lightfast. As I’ve read and learned more about dye and its place in history I’ve learned how the European dyers identified the dyes as the Great Dye, High Dyes or Fine Dyes. Other dyes were known as Lessor or False Dyes.
In “The Colour Cauldron” by Su Grierson based on Scottish dyeworks, she identifies the Five Material Colors:
Blue – Indigo and Woad
Yellow – Fustic, Weld, Turmeric
Red-Cochineal, Madder
Brown – African Sandelwood + above+modifiers
Black – All of above + modifiers
These are tried and trusted colors that have held over the years. There are many other classifications but the theme stays true. Some dyes hold, others are of the moment.
Many of the other colors that we dyers use are in our region and easily obtainable but don’t always hold up to a strict sunfast test. I have yet to find a specifications without having to obtain laboratory equipment. I have used my south window and allowed items to sit for at least 30 days. My methods could definitely be argued with. Any references would be greatly appreciated!
In the end one has to think about how commercialization has changed expectations on color and its ability to stay on fiber. If a costume or blanket is prepared for a special ceremony, one only needs the color to stay the duration of the event, not a lifetime.
Let’s talk lightfastness
Dec 7, 2010
The left hand photo is gold color extracted from mesquite chips with denatured alcohol. The different yarns were wrapped and the left hand side covered with heavy paper. The sample set in my southfacing window sill from 9/28/10 - 12/29/10. There is very little fading between the two sides. On the right you can see that the color faded slightly but not significantly.
As a comparison, the right hand photo is a comparison of my cactus tuna colors obtained with water fermentation. You’ll notice that there was significant fading when these yarns were exposed to light. These yarns were only exposed for one month compared to almost 3 months for the mesquite on the left. From top to bottom, we have the mordanted Blanco county tuna, the middle tuna is also on mordanted yarn and the tuna was sourced from Central Market. The bottom brown color was unmordanted yarn with the Central Market tuna with a vinegar bath.